Kashmir is once again wearing its golden crown as autumn descends on the Valley, casting the countryside in a magical blend of yellow paddy fields, crimson Chinar leaves, and the rhythmic song of cicadas. Alongside this seasonal charm, the region is experiencing a cautious but steady revival of tourism, months after the Pahalgam terror attack disrupted life and scarred confidence.
Across the Valley, farmers are busy with harvests. Grain-laden paddy fields are being cut in haste before the chill sets in. In rain-fed areas, maize is being collected under watchful eyes, with villagers hooting to drive away bears that descend into fields for food. Nomadic Bakarwals, with their families and livestock, are moving down from the highland meadows to the plains for the winter months, adding to the rhythm of seasonal migration.
Apple orchards are buzzing with activity, as growers pack fruits into cardboard boxes for markets outside Jammu and Kashmir. Yet, frequent closures of the Srinagar-Jammu highway have left them grappling with losses. Grapes from Ganderbal’s famed Rapore village hang in abundance, while ducks and swans return early to their coops near water bodies, wary of jackals prowling in the dark.
The Valley’s most iconic symbol of autumn, the Chinar tree, is now shedding its leaves in shades of crimson and amber. Legend says a Persian traveler, struck by the fiery foliage, exclaimed “Chi Naar” – What Fire! Today, carpets of dry Chinar leaves not only delight walkers but also provide charcoal for the poor, used in the traditional kangri. The kangri, carried under a woollen pheran, remains Kashmir’s humble answer to the harsh winter and unreliable electricity.
Locals prepare for the cold by drying vegetables like brinjal, pumpkins, and tomatoes, ensuring food security during snowbound months when Dal Lake freezes at minus ten degrees Celsius. Seasonal delicacies such as Shabdeg, a slow-cooked dish of rooster and turnips, anchor Kashmiri kitchens in tradition. For residents, these small comforts of autumn are treasures not easily bartered for modern luxuries elsewhere.
This year, however, autumn carries significance beyond seasonal rhythms. It comes on the heels of the April 22 Pahalgam terror attack, which shook the Valley, scared away visitors, and triggered tensions along the India-Pakistan border. Months later, the region is slowly regaining confidence. Authorities have reopened over a dozen tourist destinations with enhanced security measures, while more are set to follow. Cultural activities and sports events, including a cricket match in Pahalgam, have been organised to foster community spirit and reassure visitors.
On the humanitarian front, a landmark Memorandum of Understanding was signed between HRDS India and the J&K administration to build 1,500 smart houses for families displaced by militancy, floods, and cross-border shelling. These three-bedroom homes, part of ‘Operation Sindoor’, aim to restore dignity and provide long-term security to thousands affected.
Meanwhile, the all-weather railway link via the Chenab bridge, inaugurated recently, has been hailed as a transformative step for the Valley. It promises to boost connectivity with the Indian mainland, ease trade routes, and open new avenues for tourism. Officials believe this will be a gamechanger in strengthening the region’s economy, whose backbone remains travel and agriculture.
Lieutenant Governor Manoj Sinha has underlined that phased reopening of tourist hotspots will serve as a confidence-building measure, drawing more visitors to the Valley’s famed landscapes. The revival of tourism is not just an economic necessity but also a symbolic assertion of Kashmir’s resilience in the face of adversity.
Despite scars of conflict, the Valley remains a land where beauty and endurance coexist. The golden glow of paddy fields, the falling Chinar leaves, the sound of cicadas, and the sight of tourists returning all converge into a message of hope. For those who say they have not seen Kashmir in autumn, the Valley this year is offering both its timeless magic and its unyielding strength.
