A decade ago, a visit to the Andaman and Nicobar Islands meant off-grid seclusion, sparse crowds, and a touch of the untamed. Today, the archipelago has emerged as one of India’s most popular tourist getaways, with over 600,000 visitors in 2023 alone. Fueled by a post-pandemic travel boom, aggressive digital marketing, and improved air connectivity, tourism is now the islands’ fastest-growing industry. But the rush to paradise is revealing cracks in the very foundation that supports it.
Transportation woes
The journey begins at Veer Savarkar International Airport in Port Blair, which, despite ongoing expansion, remains stretched. Peak hours see bottlenecks at check-in counters and long queues spilling into the corridors. Ferry services, crucial for accessing islands like Havelock and Neil, are frequently overbooked during the high season. While private operators help ease the load, they are not immune to the twin nemeses of logistics—bad weather and overcapacity.
Even once on land, travel can be bumpy. The Andaman Trunk Road remains the primary artery connecting the capital to the northern islands, but much of it is riddled with potholes. Tourist hotspots like Baratang and Diglipur, famous for limestone caves and twin islands, often involve journeys lasting several hours on patchy roads with limited pit stops.
Accommodation shortage
Hotel operators are witnessing a gold rush. “There’s no lean season anymore,” says Rakesh Kumar, who manages a boutique resort in Havelock. But the boom has come with shortages. While upscale resorts cater comfortably to affluent tourists, budget travelers frequently struggle to find decent, affordable lodging, particularly during holidays and long weekends.
This imbalance is exacerbated by inconsistent utilities. Water scarcity and power outages are common in smaller islands during peak months. Some resorts rely on private generators and tankers, pushing up operational costs and, by extension, room tariffs.
Waste management and environmental strain
The ecological cost of tourism is rising as fast as its revenues. Despite a ban on single-use plastics, enforcement is lax. Litter is a growing menace in popular tourist zones, from ferry terminals to beaches once touted as pristine. Waste disposal remains rudimentary; the islands have yet to develop a comprehensive recycling system or a centralized landfill capable of handling the seasonal influx.
The marine ecosystem is also under duress. Coral reefs—particularly around Havelock and Wandoor—face bleaching and degradation due to increased boat traffic, anchoring, and pollutants. Local divers report fewer sightings of key species, while turtle nesting sites are increasingly disturbed by beachfront activity.
Government and private sector interventions
Recognizing the pressure points, the administration has laid out plans. The Veer Savarkar Airport is undergoing a much-needed upgrade. A new terminal promises to more than double capacity, while proposals for a secondary airport in Car Nicobar are on the table.
In maritime transport, newer ferries with larger capacities and safety features are being inducted. Roads are being relaid with priority given to key routes. There is also a policy push toward eco-tourism—homestays, green resorts, and curated village experiences designed to spread the economic benefits while keeping footprints light.
On the sustainability front, the administration is working to tighten waste regulations and nudge hoteliers toward more responsible practices, including waste segregation and solar adoption. But progress remains slow, and private compliance is patchy at best.
The way forward
The Andaman and Nicobar Islands are at a critical juncture. Tourism has the potential to drive prosperity and improve livelihoods, but only if matched by smart infrastructure, environmental foresight, and long-term planning. Without it, the very allure of these islands—its turquoise waters, coral reefs, and solitude—may be eroded.
If the administration and stakeholders can strike a balance between expansion and preservation, the archipelago could evolve into a model for sustainable island tourism. But the clock is ticking, and paradise cannot remain pristine by accident.
